Biking in the Valpolicella: When the Fog Rolls in


One of the most magical things about autumn in northern Italy is the fog.

It descends at dawn or dusk and arrives alongside a chill in the air. It can make a cathedral, only a hundred meters away, disappear. It covers the autostrada, obscures the Alps, and dims the lights. But it makes everything seem peaceful.


Nebbia flickr -Tia-

“Explored” by -Tia- licensed under (CC BY-ND 2.0)

Unless of course, one happens to be cycling on a winding, hilly, single-lane road in the Venetian countryside, wearing dark clothing. Oh and did I mention I was the tour guide?

Six of us had decided to do the extra 25-mile loop in the late afternoon, and had stopped for a brief wine tasting. We still had 15 miles to go when the light disappeared.


Italian country roads are a beast unto themselves even without the fog: barely the width of two cars, most have no shoulders, no lights, and no fluorescent strips. During the day, they are a smooth path through a gorgeous setting, and fantastic for cycling. In the dark, not so much.


Then: a farmhouse! I knocked and asked to use the phone so my co-guide could come and rescue us. Mi dispiace, the woman said, if I let you in, you could rob me.


So, riding single-file, we continued through the mist. It was harvest-time in the Valpolicella, and tractors pulling large crates overflowing with grapes had been chugging past us all day. When the next one – thankfully with an empty crate – emerged through the fog, I jumped off my bike and stood in the middle of the road: per favore kind farmer, give us a lift! 
After some negotiation, we threw our bikes into his empty trailer and piled in next to them. We chug-chug-chugged to our hotel no more quickly but much more safely, and in time to share evening cocktails and a great story with the rest of the group.
Photo by -Tia-

Client Testimonials

"We had a wonderful trip! We did so many amazing things and experienced many wonderful places yet never felt like..."

"We thank you so much for all you gave us, guided us to, arranged for, and detailed for us. Not..."

"We are in love with Venice and the Dolomites. The ski adventure was amazing and beyond anything we could have..."

"Absolutely everything that you planned went off without a hitch. Every tour, every restaurant, every train and activity came through..."

"Thank you again from all three of us for your help in planning such a delightful trip. I know that..."

"Madeline carefully planned a fabulous, personalized 19 day itinerary (Lake Garda, Dolomites, N/S Tuscany, Rome) that enabled us to be..."

Read More Client Testimonials

Italy Advice & Tips In Your Inbox

Italy Advice & Tips In Your Inbox

Italy Advice & Tips In Your Inbox

Join our mailing list to get the free Driving In Italy eBook

Your name(Required)

Going Somewhere Other Than Italy?

The Travel Expert Network

Check out the Travel Expert Network where you’ll find Certified Travel Experts™ like us ready to plan custom bucket trips for you all over the world!

Visit the Travel Expert Network →

Office Locations

San Francisco
+1 773 621-3024
Contact San Francisco

+39 320 028 6827
Contact Milan

+39 331 222 2349
Contact Rome

Free Driving In Italy eBook
Start Dreaming About Your Next Italy Trip

Start Dreaming About Your Next Italy Trip

Subscribe to our newsletter.

Your name(Required)