Biking in the Valpolicella: When the Fog Rolls in
Written by Madeline Jhawar
One of the most magical things about autumn in northern Italy is the fog.
It descends at dawn or dusk and arrives alongside a chill in the air. It can make a cathedral, only a hundred meters away, disappear. It covers the autostrada, obscures the Alps, and dims the lights. But it makes everything seem peaceful.
“Explored” by -Tia- licensed under (CC BY-ND 2.0)
Unless of course, one happens to be cycling on a winding, hilly, single-lane road in the Venetian countryside, wearing dark clothing. Oh and did I mention I was the tour guide?
Six of us had decided to do the extra 25-mile loop in the late afternoon, and had stopped for a brief wine tasting. We still had 15 miles to go when the light disappeared.
Italian country roads are a beast unto themselves even without the fog: barely the width of two cars, most have no shoulders, no lights, and no fluorescent strips. During the day, they are a smooth path through a gorgeous setting, and fantastic for cycling. In the dark, not so much.
Then: a farmhouse! I knocked and asked to use the phone so my co-guide could come and rescue us. Mi dispiace, the woman said, if I let you in, you could rob me.
So, riding single-file, we continued through the mist. It was harvest-time in the Valpolicella, and tractors pulling large crates overflowing with grapes had been chugging past us all day. When the next one – thankfully with an empty crate – emerged through the fog, I jumped off my bike and stood in the middle of the road: per favore kind farmer, give us a lift!
After some negotiation, we threw our bikes into his empty trailer and piled in next to them. We chug-chug-chugged to our hotel no more quickly but much more safely, and in time to share evening cocktails and a great story with the rest of the group.
Photo by -Tia-
Written by Madeline Jhawar
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