A Cyclist’s Guide to Rome

By Guest Writer: Klaas Jan Kok

Uncovering the charm of La Grande Bellezza

Roads don’t just lead to Rome: there are plenty of roads, alleys, streets and lanes in the city itself worth exploring, which always lead to little or great beauty. Let me be your cyclist’s guide to Rome.

Here are some of the cycling challenges and opportunities in this ancient metropolis. I will answer burning questions like: how to ride safely in Rome’s traffic? What bike suits what occasion? We’ll talk about the roads, routes, hidden or not-so-hidden gems, weather, safety and much more. While I’ll focus on intermediate cyclists (those who ride regularly), you’ll find suggestions for every skill level—from beginner to experienced.

I’ve been living in Rome for years, and I think biking is the best way to discover its heart and surroundings. Of course, tour buses are safe and pass important sights, but authenticity is impossible to grasp. Scooters don’t exactly excite me, for obvious yet probably biased reasons. Naturally, I’ve walked the city, which definitely has its perks. Whatever your mode of transportation, it’s simply hard to compete with the advantages of a bike. Here’s why.

Progress and heritage in Rome

Rome’s reputation as a cycling city is far from ideal, and, honestly: it’s no Copenhagen, Utrecht (The Netherlands) or Singapore. Perhaps that’s why the Eternal City is neither pretentious nor flashy regarding its aspirations. Nonetheless, it is ambitious. With a mayor who aims to finish 143 kilometers of new bike lanes by 2026 and a future cycle network of a staggering 1,437 kilometers, the prospects are intriguing (source: MIC-HUB).

And it’s surprisingly good news, don’t you think? Especially for a city that has huge spatial problems, mainly due to the monumental status of a big chunk of the center. In fact, you won’t come across many bike lanes in the center, so cycling on regular streets with any kind of traffic is common. That very contrast can be the magic for a cyclist: passing the Colosseum, Pantheon, Forum, Renaissance palaces and incredible churches alongside a full city bus, bad street art or a bored tour group.

Cycling in Rome

In general, the city center is not a place for fainthearted cyclists. If you’re a beginner, or your bicycle is all dusty after years of solitude in the shed, think twice about throwing yourself to the wolves. Rather, book a tour at one of the excellent, safety-minded bike companies. They keep you at ease and know the best and engaging ways to visit the city and boost your interest. Needless to say, if you are not entirely comfortable riding a bike through a busy city, please don’t. You’ll be stressed, feel frustrated or ashamed and simply won’t enjoy the ride. Honest but well-meant words.

Intermediate cyclists will have a blast, since bikes are basically allowed anywhere in the city center—though I wouldn’t try pedaling across Saint Peter’s Square or around the main sights, such as the Trevi Fountain, unless in the wee hours of the morning, as there would just be too many people. Forget the afternoon, especially on the weekends, as it would just be too crowded. In any case, you can rent bikes or book a tour. Either way, get ready to see Rome’s hidden pearls and corners. I’ve seen people of all kinds of ages cycling around Rome. For example, I took my mother (then 68) and father (73) on a spin through very different areas across the entire city and they absolutely loved it.

Traveling with children? I suggest a tour, it will be a lot less hassle. The traffic in the Caput Mundi has its own laws, so just leave a safe and fun itinerary to professional bike guides. In summer, you’ll also have to watch the weather: temperatures above 35 °C are common and it’s certainly not the best idea to step on a bike with your youngster(s) then.

For the experienced bike-lover, the pendulum can swing right or left, i.e.: you like cycling in Rome’s center a lot, or not at all. Anyone who has travelled this city by bike for a while, has a love-hate relationship with it, but the magic words are: go with the flow. Try to be positive, enjoy, and smile occasionally to a driver or fellow cyclist. You’ll likely witness some unusual situations, since the usual traffic rules don’t always seem to apply in Rome; it’s all part of the cultural experience. That’s why we travel, isn’t it?
Otherwise, for a taste of serenity, go cruising outside of the city on the Appian Way, or in one of the huge parks (see below).

If you rent a bike from a reputable company, they will usually give you a handy repair kit for mechanical or other issues, a smartphone holder and a sturdy lock (Topbike rental is a safe and excellent option).

What kind of bike?

Within the city walls, you can use a regular city bike, with some gears, because Rome is hilly. If you want more comfort, for every occasion, choose a hybrid or cyclocross style (e-)bike. They have suspension and wider tires, to conquer the bumpy roads easily. Outside of the city, in parks and on the Appian Way, an (e-)mountain bike (MTB) would be the best choice. For those who wish to go for a multi-day ride in the Italian countryside: pick a trekking bike with some bag space.

What to do when biking in Rome

• say “permesso” if you want to pass somebody in a busy pedestrian area or on narrow paths in parks
• stay on the (far) right on regular streets with traffic
• watch your back, your front, your sides, the car-driver’s eyes, and the pavement (like for potholes!) A little exaggerated—just be aware of what’s going on around you and underneath you.

What not to do when biking in Rome

• use your phone or take pictures while cycling
• stress out and swear (although it’s tempting, I know)
• go wild on the cobblestones when it rains; they get slippery, so watch out

What you can occasionally do biking in Rome

• walk your bike through pedestrian-crossings
• ring your bell when you encounter big tour groups that aren’t moving
• ride on sidewalks—for safety purposes only; be kind (compassion is key)

Practical Suggestions – Weather

Simply put, this city generally has two seasons. If you come to Rome in winter, you’ll see less crowds. It’s seldom dark or rainy for more than two days in a row, and in the daytime, it hardly gets (very) cold. Bring a jacket with you though, or dress in layers, because weather conditions can change quickly and evenings turn chillier.

Cyclists should dress lightly in summer and drink lots of water: potable water from thousands of small fountains, the nasoni, can be found everywhere, fortunately. Stay inside, stay in the shade, or ramble up to a parasol-filled terrace during the hottest hours of the day, especially in July and August. I wouldn’t suggest cycling much, perhaps only in the mornings. Even better, in the evening. The night brings another vibe to life, when the city’s highlights are illuminated and crowds begin to thin. Cycling then can truly be unforgettable.

Recommended routes

• Appian Way (Via Appia Antica) – Probably the most captivating ride around Rome. Approx. 25 km/15 mi (including the Aqueduct Park), by (e-)mountainbike/(e-)cyclocross-bike. Check the tour-companies in the city for detailed info, there are many.
• Lungotevere pista ciclabile – A splendid bicycle path alongside the Tiber river. Approx. 35 km/21 mi by any kind of bike.
• Villa Pamphili/Villa Borghese – Both parks are extraordinary and offer great cycling possibilities. Villa Borghese is fairly easy to reach and has well-maintained paths, even for beginners on city bikes; Pamphili is more challenging, so it’s suitable for intermediate/experienced cyclists on (e-)mountainbike/(e-)cyclocross-bike.
• EUR – Cruise wide lanes, a huge lake, and pass the ‘Square Colosseum’. This quarter was intended by Mussolini for the Universal Expo of 1942. Excellent gelato everywhere and the only Trappist brewery of Italy around. Any kind of bike is good, but remember: EUR is hilly as well.
• Night and Panoramic Tour of Rome – Off-the-beaten-track tours to experience the majestic beauty of the city in a different light and from new angles. Approx. 12-18 km (7-11 mi) by e-citybike. Check the available bike tours in the city for further details and bookings.

Difficulties choosing? Rent a bike and get lost in the labyrinth of the city center or Trastevere in the mornings, which is always a treat.

The perks of cycling La Grande Bellezza

• Discover green, serene and scenic places without traffic, off the beaten path;
• You are able to visit a lot in a short time;
• Cruising next to the historically rich architecture is mind-blowing;
• You’re active and eco-friendly—essential to creating a more sustainable mindset in our world (read: Roma). 

Cycling gives you unimaginable views of this gorgeous town. The experience will stick with you, I promise.

Klaas Jan Kok has traveled by bicycle in various parts of the world and has been a Bicycle Tour leader in Rome for about 5 years. Sustainable, respectful and responsible travel is his aim. More stories and info: www.bonfoimuziek.com/blog/